WEB EXCLUSIVE
Travel Nerd
Whistle Blowers
From historic railways to a 21st Century commuter train, New Mexico offers a plethora of destinations for rail fans.
By Ashley M. Biggers
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The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is the world's highest and longest narrow gauge railway. |
Northern
To visit the granddaddy New Mexican railway, head to Chama, 107 miles north of Santa Fe off U.S. 84, to the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. The railway was constructed in 1880 as part of the Rio Grande’s San Juan Extension to climb the high mountain passages to the silver mining district in southwestern Colorado. Today it operates as the world’s highest (it reaches an elevation of more than 10,000 feet as it chugs though the Cumbres Pass) and longest narrow gauge railway (the rails are only three feet apart as opposed to the standard gauge of more than four feet). The scenery is spectacular, and once the track veers away from U.S. 84, there’s little evidence of modern civilization, and you get the impression you’re seeing the landscape just as it was in the Old West.
When a brush fire burned the railroad’s Lobato Trestle in June 2010, rail fans feared tours on the Cumbres & Toltec would come to a screeching halt—but the operation is still rolling daily, thanks to a slightly shortened route and 10 percent discount. Now, a 15-minute bus ride transports passengers from the former starting point in the Chama railyard, across the New Mexico–Colorado state line to Cumbres (just past Lobato Trestle) where they board the train and make for its final destination in Antonito, Colorado. From the Antonito depot, a charter bus drives passengers back to Chama. The Cumbres & Toltec season runs through October 17, 2010. If you’re a true train aficionado, consider volunteering with the Friends of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, a non-profit organization that oversees the railroad’s historic preservation and maintenance.
Step into one of the Santa Fe Southern Railway’s vintage coaches at the Santa Fe Depot for an 18-mile [scenic] excursion to Lamy and back. The refurbished, early 20th century cars (with brand-new exterior designs, courtesy of local Frank Weschler of fw graphic designs) have clerestory roofs, mahogany walls, and operable windows. Catch the Friday and Saturday Lamy Freight Trains (the Santa Fe Southern still hauls freight along with its passengers), departing at 11 a.m. and returning at 3:30 p.m. At the station, Chef Michael of the Lamy Station Café sets up a lunch buffet that can be enjoyed in the depot or at Lamy Park. From May through October, you can catch the sunset on the Friday evening High-Desert Highball run (the train’s full-service cash bar is especially popular on this trip) or the Saturday Evening Barbecue, with Chef Michael’s award-winning barbecue at the park.—Arin McKenna
The New Mexico Rail Runner Express also departs from the Santa Fe Depot, from which it travels south through Albuquerque to the end of its line in Belén. The Rail Runner began offering commuter train service in 2006 and completed its route along the heavily traveled central corridor in 2008. With a style reminiscent of the Super Chief trains that once toured the southwest, the trains boast double-decker seating where passengers can take in views of the Río Grande and Native American reservations while zipping along at a 21st-century pace. Just hop aboard at one of the train’s dozen stations (you’ll buy your ticket on board) and get ready for adventure. Please note that while the train offers regular service, you should consult the schedule when planning your excursion.
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The Luna Mansion, in Los Lunas south of Albuquerque, has a connection to New Mexico's rail history and operates as a restaurant today. |
Central
One of New Mexico’s 13 original Harvey Houses, from 1908 to 1939 Belén’s Harvey House Dining Room offered hearty fare and good service at reasonable prices to travelers heading into the Wild West. Today the historic building houses the Harvey House Museum [104 N. First St., (505) 861-0581] which preserves Santa Fe Railway and Fred Harvey organization memorabilia. Visit the famous Harvey Girls’ dormitories and the Belén Model Railroad Club’s creations. Belén is located 30 miles south of Albuquerque off I-25. The museum is open Tuesday–Saturday from 12:30–3:30 p.m.
Hungry? Head to Los Lunas, 24 miles south of Albuquerque off I-24, to the Luna Mansion restaurant [110 W. Main St., (505) 865-7333]. In 1881, when the New Mexico & Southern wanted to lay track through Antonio José Luna’s hacienda, he asked that the company build him a new house of his design. The resulting Victorian-style Luna-Otero Mansion is still standing today and operates as a restaurant serving elegant, American fare. Several ghosts are also rumored to haunt the mansion, including the late Josefita Otero who once resided there.
Southern
In March 8, 1881, in Deming, a silver spike joined the Southern Pacific Railroad and the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, creating the second transcontinental railway. Although there’s relatively little to see (other than tracks) to mark this monumental collision, the town of Deming owes its existence to the railway. Named after Mary Deming Crocker, wife of a railroad tycoon, Deming was officially founded after the meeting of the two railways. A Harvey House quickly followed, and part of that original building still stands next to the town’s Amtrak depot today.
