October 2011
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| Chile Lime Roasted Pumpkin Seeds |
SOUTHWEST FLAVOR
The Great Pumpkin
Fall's most utilitarian crop offer limitless outside-the-pie possibilities.
By Michele Ostrove. Photography by Douglas Merriam.
There is something about a pumpkin
that invites creative interpretation, competition, and old-fashioned fun. Here, in New Mexico, the iconic symbol of October is celebrated as a canvas for carving, a versatile ingredient for cooking, a seasonal decoration, and—in the case of Estancia’s annual Pumpkin Chunkin’ contest—even a projectile, hurled by hand-made catapults at speeds approaching 150 miles per hour. (The winner of the event, held this year on October 16, will go on to compete in the World Championship in Delaware, where hopefuls will try again to break the 2008 record of 4,483 feet.)
Not into smashing pumpkins? You might enjoy extreme pumpkin carving, which actually advocates the use of jigsaws, drills, dremels, and various other tools to create serious works of art. For master gardeners like Jannine Cabossel, of Santa Fe, the fun is in growing the gourd to gigantic proportions. Her 421-pound “King Kong” captured the 2010 New Mexico state record for largest pumpkin, and took third in the Colorado Springs Giant Pumpkin Weigh-Off. (The winner topped the scales at a whopping 1,109 pounds.)
If you want to leave the growing to others, you can pick your own pumpkin at one of the state’s many patches, like McCall’s in Moriarty, Mesilla Valley Maze in Las Cruces, or Davis Farms Pumpkin Patch in Clovis. Hayrides, corn mazes, pie eating, seed-spitting, and pumpkin shuffleboard are all part of the harvest season experience.
Santa Fean Michele Ostrove is the founder of Wine Adventure, the first wine magazine for women, and the organizer of New Mexico Restaurant Week. See more of Douglas Merriam’s work at www.douglasmerriam.com.
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Pumpkin Purée
No offense to the award-winning “King Kong” pumpkin, but most cooks prefer the smaller sugar pumpkins, or pie pumpkins, which individually yield more meat for cooking purposes and have a better flavor and texture. The sweet, dark-orange-colored flesh from a 4-lb. sugar pumpkin makes about 1½ cups of pumpkin purée, which can be used in all recipes calling for canned pumpkin.
Split a rinsed pumpkin in half and remove the seeds and fibers. Rub it with canola oil, and place it cut-side-down in a baking pan. Add about a cup of water and bake in a 375-degree oven for 90 minutes, or until flesh is tender when pierced. When cool, scoop out the baked flesh and purée it in a food mill or processor or mash by hand. If the purée seems watery, place in a sieve or colander lined with 2 layers of cheesecloth, set over a deep bowl, and let it drain for several hours in the refrigerator.
Chile Lime Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
Pumpkin seeds, or pepitas, make a nutritious snack by themselves, as part of a trail mix or granola, and add a tasty crunch in main dishes and salads.
1 cup raw pumpkin seeds
1 teaspoon olive oil, plus more to grease
cookie sheet
½ teaspoon red-chile powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
salt to taste
½ fresh lime
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, mix pumpkin seeds, teaspoon of olive oil and spices until seeds are evenly coated. Spread seeds in a single layer on oiled cookie sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until seeds are crispy and dry. Remove from oven and squeeze lime on top; stir to combine. Cool before eating.
Old House Pumpkin Shrimp Bisque
This decadent fall soup, courtesy of Anthony Smith, the London-born executive chef of Santa Fe’s Eldorado Hotel, showcases the three-part harmony of sweet pumpkin, briny shrimp, and earthy sage.
1 lb. shell-on shrimp (use U15-sized shrimp,
or under-15-per-pound size)
2 cups pumpkin purée (fresh is best,
but canned will work)
½ cup heavy cream
1 /8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
dry sherry & crème fraîche to finish
Shrimp Stock:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
¾ cup dry white wine
3 cups water
pinch saffron threads
Stock: Peel and clean shrimp, saving the shells. Put clean shrimp in cooler. Heat olive oil in a saucepan over high heat. Sauté shrimp shells, onion, and celery; add wine. Add the water and saffron; bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the stock into another saucepan.
Soup: Add the pumpkin, cream, and cayenne into the shrimp stock. Bring the soup to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, finish with sherry to enrich; adjust seasoning to taste.
Serving the soup: Sauté shrimp in olive oil and season; when cooked, add sage. Place shrimp in soup bowls, and pour in soup. Garnish with a dollop of crème fraîche.
Serves 8.
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New Mexican Pipian
Pipian, also known as green mole, is a classic Mexican pumpkin seed sauce that can be used on meat, chicken, fish, shrimp, or vegetables. Chef Fernando Olea, owner of Epazote in Santa Fe, created this New Mexico version for pork.
2 racks of pork (cut into riblets)
4 cloves
¼ cup vegetable oil
6 cloves garlic
½ onion, chopped
1 lb. hot Hatch green chiles, roasted, skinned, seeded, and stemmed
½ lb. pumpkin seeds (if store-bought, look for roasted and unsalted)
1½ lb. tomatillos, rinsed and skinned
1 cup chicken broth
½ teaspoon black pepper (corn or ground)
1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped
salt to taste
water
Boil ½ gallon of water in a large pot, lower heat, add tomatillos, and simmer for approximately 10 minutes, until their color changes and softens. Remove tomatillos and set aside.
Place an ungreased skillet over high heat for approximately 2 minutes, add pumpkin seeds and lightly toast to golden brown.
In a pan, heat a tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat, sear the ribs for approximately 6 to 10 minutes until light brown. Remove ribs and set aside. Lower the heat, and add the remaining oil (as needed) in the same pan to sauté the chopped onion and garlic until clear and soft (about
5 minutes).
Place tomatillos, green chile, cloves, garlic, onion, pumpkin seeds, pepper, and chicken broth in a food processor or blender and blend to a gravy-like consistency, adding water if needed.
Put sauce and ribs in a large saucepan, bring to boil, and lower heat. Simmer for 60 minutes, stirring often. Add cilantro and salt to taste. Can be refrigerated for 5 days or frozen up to 3 months.
Serves 12.
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Pumpkin Pie French Toast
Healthy and versatile, pumpkin is a stellar component for snacks, appetizers, entrées, desserts, and even breakfasts. Instead of pumpkin pancakes, try this delicious version of French toast.
2 eggs
¼ cup milk
¼ cup pumpkin purée
½ teaspoon vanilla
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ginger
1 /8 teaspoon cloves
1 /8 teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons brown sugar
8 thick slices of bread, such as challah
maple syrup or agave nectar
Mix the eggs, milk, pumpkin purée, vanilla, spices and brown sugar in shallow bowl. Immerse the bread slices into the egg mixture until saturated.
Melt the butter on a griddle or in a large frying pan. Fry the pieces of bread until lightly golden brown on both sides, adding more butter in the pan as needed. Serve with maple syrup or agave nectar.
Serves 4.
