Anne Hillerman

Daughter of the late Tony Hillerman, restaurant critic Anne Hillerman has written reviews for the Albuquerque Journal and Journal North since 2001. With more than 30 years of journalism experience under her belt, Hillerman is also the author of The Insiders’ Guide to Santa Fe (Insiders’ Guide, 2002) and the Children’s Guide to Santa Fe (Sunstone Press, 2005). Now Hillerman combines her knowledge for travel and food in Santa Fe Flavors: Best Restaurants and Recipes (Gibbs Smith, 2009). Join Brandon Call as he gets some inside tips on some of Santa Fe’s most tempting eateries.

Q: Santa Fe is renowned for its cuisine. What gives the city this reputation?

A: One thing Santa Fe has in its favor is that we’re such a mecca for tourists. Unlike most towns of 60,000, Santa Fe draws tourists from all around the world. A lot of those folks have sophisticated taste. I think this gives more of a market for restaurants that want to do something a little different—restaurants that are maybe experimenting with something new.

 

I love the do-it-yourself aspect of the book. What prompted you to include recipes and instructions for people living out of state?

I think it was my own experience [of cooking] with the New York Times Cookbook. A lot of them are wonderful recipes, but, especially with things requiring any sort of baking, they just don’t work at high altitudes. I figured people looking at this book living in other places would feel the same way.

The book seems travel-friendly.

When I originally had the idea for doing this book, I thought it needed to be something people can take with them. I didn’t want it to be a giant coffee-table book. I love those books, but I think they’re impractical for people who are traveling and have limited room in their suitcase. I was really pleased when the publisher came up with this format. It’s perfect to stick in a backpack or purse.

What is it that makes good New Mexican food great?

The key is the red or green chile. I must admit, the recipes for red chile from The Shed and green-chile stew from Tía Sophia’s are incredible!

Were there any places you wanted to include but just couldn’t?

I love Aqua Santa. It’s a little place on Alameda Street, but when I talked to the chef, he said that he just doesn’t give out his recipes. I asked him for a recipe for happiness, and he said that would be too corny.

Are you a good cook yourself, or do you prefer to leave it to the professionals?

I’m a good cook, or I think I am. That’s a question you should probably ask my husband and son. I like to go to the farmers’ market for fresh things, and then see what’s in the refrigerator to improvise with. I like to experiment with new things and adjust recipes. Cooking is another creative outlet for me.

Does good cooking run in the family?

My mom is the best cook I know. My grandparents, too. A lot of people from that generation were farm people, so every meal was just incredible. They had chickens right outside in the yard, and they had their own gardens. Everything was so fresh.

Is that why your book is dedicated to your mom?

She’s been such an inspiration to me. Like I said in the book, she taught me to cook. It was mostly from watching her make things. I grew up in a big family, and she was always cooking a lot. I think, also, the most important thing she did for me is teach me how to read. Basically, if you can read, you can cook. You may not be a world-renowned gourmet chef, but if you can follow a recipe, you should be able to at least put something together that is edible.

What are some secret Hillerman family recipes?

I had a book signing in Los Alamos, and my mom told me she was going to make some cookies. They were wonderful. They were pecan cookies with white chocolate chips. Everyone loved them.

And lastly, the million-dollar question: Red or green?

Christmas. When done right, I like both.

Intern Brandon Call is a student at the University of New Mexico.

Synopsis of Santa Fe Flavors (from the book jacket): In a city known for its fine dining, Santa Fe boasts countless restaurants for the food lover. Restaurant critic Anne Hillerman takes connoisseurs on a whirlwind tour through some of the most delectable restaurants Santa Fe has to offer. She gives impeccable recommendations on teh best eateries throughout the area and even provides diners the chance to re-create some of their favorite dishes.