Dining: Top Brewpubs

You may be able to find Santa Fe Brewing Company beers in your area; check their Beer Locator at www.santafebrewing.com

Brewhaha

As leaves turn gold and the scent of roasting chile wafts through the air, our writers venture across New Mexico to give you a taste of the state's brewpubs and their local flavor—just in time for Oktoberfest.

Bigger is Better
Santa Fe Brewing Company

Known for: Live music
Best brew: Santa Fe Pale Ale
Lightweight: Santa Fe Wheat
Heavy hitter: Chicken Killer Barley Wine
Nosh on: Beer-battered green-chile cheese fries
Crowd: Musicians, singers, and creative souls

The Santa Fe Brewing Company has the recipe for success: Not only have they been brewing their own beers for more than 20 years, they’re also one of Santa Fe’s premier spots for live music and tasty pub food.
Located just off I-25 and N.M. 14 on the southern edge of Santa Fe, the Brewing Company is a great stop for out-of-town visitors looking for something local and fulfilling. (Take the Madrid exit to Fire Place Road, then turn right; their sign is easy to spot.) Mostly, locals of all ages grace the patio and enjoy the good tunes, whether reggae or folk.

The Brewing Company was started by Mike Levis in 1988, and was later taken over by his son, Ty, and co-owner Brian Lock. Levis and Lock know a thing or two about beer. They began by making beer in milk containers, and later expanded into bona fide brewing tanks and 12,000 square feet dedicated to brewing original ales, porters, and other creations, such as the Chicken Killer Barley Wine.

“We have a 30-barrel, four-vessel brewhouse that’s designed to brew beer,” Lock says. “It’s the largest brewhouse in the state by quite a bit. We’re typically brewing about 150 barrels on a 24-hour cycle.”
The brewery’s top-selling beer is Santa Fe Pale Ale, which differs from most ales in being brewed in an English style with American hops. Then there’s the State Pen Porter—more of a winter ale due to its strong flavors and dark color. In 2008, the World Beer Cup awarded it the gold medal for International Ale. Another favorite is the Santa Fe Nut Brown Ale, their second-best-selling beer, popular among tourists because it cuts some of the heat of spicy foods.—Hunter Riley

For info: Santa Fe Brewing Company, 35 Fire Place Rd., Santa Fe 87508. (505) 424-3333, www.santafebrewing.com. Monday–Saturday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. (tasting room); daily, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. (pub and grill).

For now, you can only get Three Rivers beers at one place, one way: On site and on tap.

Go with the Flow
Three Rivers Eatery and Brewhouse, Farmington

Known for: Award-winning brews
Best brew: Papa Bear’s Golden Honey Ale
Lghtweight: Orchard Street Raspberry Wheat
Heavy hitter: Hop Junkie
Nosh on: Beer-battered brats
Crowd: Locals who love the good life

A t the confluence of three northwestern New Mexico rivers—the Animas, La Plata, and San Juan—is one of the state’s best watering holes. In Farmington (population 43,573), where the backbone of the economy is a combination of natural gas, oil, and coal, Three Rivers Eatery and Brewhouse is where locals relax after a hard day’s work, families share a meal together, and friends gather for a night out.

Located in Farmington’s quaint downtown district, Three Rivers is always abuzz. From the street, the building maintains its early 1900s appearance and provides a sense of history. Inside, the community’s local flavor is expressed through the memorabilia lining the walls—such as a 1949 poster advertising a local lumberyard.

Brewing beer is more a passion than a job for partners Bob Beckley and John Silva, who opened the brewery in 1997. “Part of being a good brewer is mimicking a beer’s style, and handcrafting [a beer] is only as good as the products you have to start with,” Beckley says.

Three Rivers has knack for variety, so you can be sure to find a beer to suit your palate—everything from the sweet, fresh-tasting Red Apple Flyer Cider to the appropriately named Hop Junkie.—Xochitl Campos

For info: Three Rivers Eatery and Brewhouse, 101 E. Main St., Farmington 87401. (505) 324-2187, www.threeriversbrewery.com. Daily, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

Marble Brewery wows beer lovers with their original formulas and no-nonsense ambiance.

Just Good Beer
Marble Brewery, Albuquerque

Known for: Flavorful, creative brews
Best brew: Marble Red
Lightweight: Wildflower Wheat
Heavy hitter: Oatmeal Stout
Nosh on: To-die-for queso and chips
Crowd: Urban hipsters

You drive down a seemingly abandoned street in downtown Albuquerque lined with warehouses. But don’t worry, Marble Brewery is hidden just up ahead—there! You catch sight of the welcoming lights and umbrellas of the bustling patio, see dozens of happy faces laughing over their pints, and hope you’ve gotten there early enough to find parking.

Entering Marble Brewery’s tasting room and pub, you find a mix ranging from college students just starting the night to young families thinking it’s time to take Junior home to bed. What these city characters have in common is that they know good beer. And once you taste the brewery’s flagship IPA or one of their seasonal brews, you, too, will be a fan.

Be sure to order at least your first beer while sitting at the bar, which offers views through several big windows of the brewery in back. Then graduate to one of the pub’s booths, which are great for intimate groups—or head to the patio, everyone’s favorite for a loud get-together. But sitting inside allows you to also drink in the brewery’s cleverly created ambiance: chic modern light fixtures and wall décor paired with old-looking, uneven floorboards and a casual serving style that lets patrons feel both classy and relaxed.

Because the Marble has no kitchen, it brings in simple pub fare from other local restaurants. Queso lovers should order immediately, because the patio crowd tends to polish off the night’s supply early in the evening. For larger appetites, BYOB—that is, bring your own burger, or whatever else you crave, because Marble Brewery lets you truck in your own takeout. (Or use your cell phone to place a delivery order from another establishment—the Marble doesn’t mind!) However, you probably won’t bother—at the Marble, it’s all about the beer.

You can get five-ounce tastes ($1.50 each) of as many of the brews as you like, and when you find the one you can’t do without, you can take home with you a half-gallon growler ($7.75).—Rachel Hill

For info: Marble Brewery, 111 Marble Ave. NW, Albuquerque 87102. (505) 243-2739, www.marblebrewery.com. Monday–Thursday, 3 p.m.–midnight; Friday, 2 p.m.–midnight; Saturday, noon–midnight; Sunday, noon–10 p.m. New: Marble Santa Fe Tap Room, 60 E. San Francisco St. (505) 989-3565. Monday–Thursday, 3–10 p.m.; Saturday, noon–11 p.m.; Sunday, noon–10 p.m.

High Desert brews 25 different beers, such as their Peach Wheat, Irish Red Ale, Octoberfest, and IPA—all shown here.

Hidden Gem
High Desert Brewing Company, Las Cruces

Known for: Being a secret treasure
Best brew: Holiday Ale
Lightweight: Peach Wheat
Heavy hitter: Octoberfest
Nosh on: Nachos big enough to share
Crowd: Everyone and their mothers

An old adobe house in a residential neighborhood off Hadley Avenue in Las Cruces is home to the High Desert Brewing Company. The place is small, surrounded by trees, with a little brick patio by a front door that’s open seven days a week.

Since July 1997, High Desert has catered to the lucky few who know of its beers, amazing nachos, and laid-back atmosphere. Customers range from New Mexico State University students to retirees, all enjoying microbrewed lagers and ales while sitting under a ceiling papered with bar coasters and local business cards.

Patrons may come for the live music on Thursdays and Saturdays, featuring many local acts, but they stay for the cold beer. For those who like a sweeter brew, the Peach Wheat is perfect. If you’re itching for a lager, go for the full-flavored Octoberfest. But if you’re lucky enough to find it on tap when you visit, say yes any time of year to the Holiday Ale, with its hint of festive cinnamon in every sip.

The menu is classic pub fare with a funky twist. For an appetizer, the nachos are big, flavorful, and enough to share among friends ($4.99–$10.99). For dinner, try the green-chile cheeseburger with a generous helping of sweet-potato fries ($7.59).

The High Desert may not offer cushy digs or a big neon sign, but in this small building hidden from most traffic you’ll find a sense of community and beer that is the true flavor of Las Cruces.—Jenna Candelaria

For info: High Desert Brewing Company, 1201 W. Hadley Ave., Las Cruces 88005. (575) 525-6752, www.highdesertbrewingco.com. Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–midnight; Sunday, noon–10 p.m.

On tap on The Wellhead (left to right) Cisco Canyon Blonde Ale, Indian Basin Wheat, Wellhead Pale Ale, Roughneck Red Ale, and Crude Oil Stout.

Pub Masters
The Wellhead Restaurant and Brewpub, Artesia

Known for: Rugged sophistication
Best brew: Indian Basin Wheat
Lightweight: Cisco Canyon Blonde Ale
Heavy hitter: Crude Oil Stout
Nosh on: Classic burgers and sandwiches
Crowd: Beer enthusiasts and hardworking locals

Spirited conversations and the sounds of clinking beer bottles are what you hear when you enter The Wellhead, a restaurant and brewpub in Artesia, 40 miles south of Roswell on U.S. 285. Crowds congregate here daily to take in the satisfying pleasures and aromas of freshly brewed beers, and to bask in the welcoming atmosphere.

Oil drilling is the lifeblood of the local economy, and it’s only fitting that the beers are named accordingly: Roughneck Red, Roustabout Porter, Crude Oil Stout. The Wellhead has brewed these and three other original beers for close to a decade, expertly engineering them to meet specific flavor profiles. The Indian Basin Wheat, popular among regulars, is a blend of American and Belgian styles embedded with the warm spices of cinnamon and clove. The Roughneck Red Ale, a darker spirit made with three types of hops—Chinook, Cascade, and Mount Hood—is bold and distinct in flavor, and complements the steaks offered in The Wellhead’s adjacent restaurant.

Speaking of the food, it’s as noteworthy as the beer—simple and uncomplicated, with Southwestern influences. The Wellhead’s culinary high points are its own versions of classic burgers and sandwiches. Burgers come in two sizes: the Big Rig Burger, a mammoth 10-ounce all-beef patty ($7.59), and the seven-ounce Border Buster Burger ($6.49). And, stacked high on sourdough bread with a pile of crisp fries on the side, The Wellhead’s grilled-chicken sandwich ($8.99) is generous in size, messy, and thoroughly satisfying—like the restaurant itself.—Carlos A. Lopez

For info: The Wellhead Restaurant and Brewpub, 332 W. Main St., Artesia 88210. (575) 746-0640, www.thewellhead.com. Monday–Saturday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.