Dining: Madrid

Road to Recovery

Tired of the adobe-hued sameness of my Albuquerque home and frazzled by the rat race of a metropolitan existence, I realize that a Sunday drive to Madrid is in order.

Found about 45 miles north of Albuquerque or 30 miles south of Santa Fe along N.M. 14, a.k.a. the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway, this former coal-mining town has been transformed into a vibrant artists’ haven. Yet Madrid’s greatest attraction may be its laid-back pace. Communing with its residents—many of whom are artists who made their own, permanent escapes from urban life—is always therapeutic, as is the surrounding area. This topographical canvas painted by nature inspires the artists here, and promises to revitalize me as well.

My revival begins with a hearty brunch at The Hollar, an aptly named Southern restaurant. In the southeastern United States, hollar (usually spelled holler) is a regional variant of hollow—a small valley or low spot hidden away in the woods (as in Washington Irving’s short story “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow”). This perfectly describes Madrid, nestled as it is in a narrow valley in the foothills of the Ortiz Mountains. Housed in a ramshackle wooden structure that resembles a shed, The Hollar is a rarity in New Mexico: The menu does not include chile. Instead, their Sunday brunch serves up culinary treasures from America’s Deep South: fried green tomatoes lightly crusted with a cornmeal; smoked Gouda-cheese grits that are addictively rich; and crispy fried chicken that’s as moist and delicious as possible.

Brunch at The Hollar proves both satisfying and energizing, so with more zip in my step, I join the throngs of pedestrians who leisurely stroll between shops and galleries. It’s amazing how hungry a few hours of crisscrossing N.M. 14 can make you, so for lunch I head to Mama Lisa’s Ghost Town Kitchen, a.k.a. the No Pity Café. Touting a surprisingly eclectic menu in which every dish is made from scratch, many with organic ingredients, the food here has a homemade taste with gourmet qualities reminiscent of high-end Santa Fe restaurants. The frequently changing menu is replete with surprises, such as penne pasta with meatballs and fennel-kissed sausage enlivened by a basil-enhanced pesto sauce. As delicious as it is, I have to save room for Mama Lisa’s moist, velvet-smooth, red-chile chocolate cake.

Come evening, my final stop is a relaxing dinner at The Mine Shaft Tavern, a remnant of Madrid’s coal-town history. Following the lead of the bikers who cruise N.M. 14 on their Harleys and the local bohemians who frequent the Mine Shaft, I order a tortilla burger with green chile. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

The Hollar, 2849 N.M. 14, (505) 471-4821,http://thehollarrestaurant.com/index.html; Mama Lisa’s Ghost Town Kitchen, 2859 N.M. 14, (505) 471-5769; The Mine Shaft Tavern, 2846 N.M. 14, (505) 473-0743, www.themineshafttavern.com—Gil Garduño