Dining: Belén

Whistle Stop Cafés

Belén’s roots in ranching and railroads still run true today as this town of nearly 7,000 embraces a rural lifestyle on the Río Abajo. Located 34 miles south of Albuquerque off I-25, it draws visitors with its rodeos, historic railyard, and Through the Flower gallery, which was established by feminist art icon and Belén resident Judy Chicago and photographer Donald Woodman, her husband.

Breakfast here for me means a trip to Donut King, a typical small-town donut shop with an extensive collection of coffee mugs and community-appreciation certificates commanding all the wall space. This morning I choose a baked cinnamon roll rising about four inches off the plate and topped with a glaze, served from the counter. Not overpowering in its sweetness, its layers are filled with raisins and chopped walnuts, a perfect balance with a cup of hot cocoa.

Lunchtime takes me east toward the railroad tracks and New Mexican food at Pete’s Café. Pete’s is loved locally for its chile and its display of paintings and Navajo rugs collected throughout the family-owned restaurant’s 60 years. Today I order an à la carte chicken stuffed sopaipilla with green chile on the side. The generous helping of shredded chicken breast and melted cheddar doesn’t demand a bath of chile to make it moist or tasty—a little with each bite gives it flavor and kick enough for me. Garnished with lettuce and tomato, it’s just right to fill me up, although I do save room for a freshly-made sopaipilla with honey to top off my meal.

Across from Pete’s is the Harvey House Museum. Built in 1910, the former dining stop and hotel for railroad passengers and crews now houses a railroad history museum and the Belén Model Railroad Club. Hearing the freight trains rumble by while you stand in a replica Harvey Girl’s room makes for an evocative experience.

My choice for dinner is Fat Sat’s Bar and Grill. Passing through the oak cask doorway, I step into a 1920s-themed Chicago speakeasy, with murals by speed painter Michael Ostaski setting the scene. Satisfying the need for a local sports bar, the grill boasts 19 flat-screen TVs and is a stop on the state of New Mexico’s 2010 Green-Chile Cheeseburger Trail. I order my favorite, slightly healthier meal: a baby green salad with grilled salmon. Topped with candied walnuts, golden raisins, Gorgonzola crumbles and balsamic vinaigrette, it’s a tasty way to end a day in Belén.

Through the Flower, 107 Becker Ave., (505) 864-4080, www.throughtheflower.org; Donut King, 1322 Frontage Rd., (505) 864-4784; Pete’s Café, 105 N. First St., (505) 864-4811; Harvey House Museum, 104 N. First St., (505) 861-0581; Fat Sat’s Bar and Grill, 51 I-25 Bypass Rd., (505) 864-7715, www.fatsatsbarandgrill.com—Melissa W. Sais