Best Eats - June 2011

New Mexican Soul Food

Stuffed Sopaipilla, Tia Sophia’s, Santa Fe

When New Mexicans talk about soul food, we don’t mean grits and greens—we mean red or green! But just like folks anywhere else, we also appreciate comfort foods in a homey location. Being a Santa Fean, my go-to source for soul food is Tia Sophia’s, which has been serving the City Different for more than 30 years. When you consider how many and how often restaurants come and go in the state’s capital city, such longevity speaks volumes.

You know you’ve arrived at a soul-food establishment when the host (usually one of the owners) greets you by name. “Anywhere you like, Rocky.” I love sliding into one of the cozy booths—I always hope “Bart’s Booth” is available, because it was named in honor of my father, who also loved this family restaurant.

Having worked up an appetite strolling around the Plaza, I order my favorite lunch item: the stuffed sopaipilla combo, Christmas, grande. Translation: a flaky, homemade sopaipilla (a true New Mexican classic) stuffed with seasoned ground beef and tender pinto beans, smothered in perfectly spicy red and green chile sauces and melted cheese. They could stop there, but ordering it grande means the creation is served nestled between Spanish rice and posole. Feeling really hungry? Ask for an over-easy egg on top.

Lunch at Tia Sophia’s is more than just an opportunity for an extraordinary meal; it feels like visiting an old family friend—or your favorite auntie, who happens to be a great cook.

$8.50; 210 W. San Francisco St., (505) 983-9880—Rocky Durham